4.0 Liter Ford Engine Posts

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Which mods are the most cost effective to increase performance and horsepower to Ford 4.0 liter SOHC engine? Engine is in Ford Mustang, 2006 and newer, also in the Sport Trac 2002 and newer.

supercharged96stang replied: "well it really depends on how much youre willing to spend. forced induction (supercharger/turbocharger) will get you the most hp, but it will cost upwards of $4000 installed and tuned. engine work will yield good gains, but not as much as forced induction, but you pick that up for under $2000 unistalled (im not sure what installation for this would cost) but the cheapest way to pick up hp is bolt-ons. this includes cold air intake, underdrive pulleys, exhaust, and a handheld tuner. ***the stock v6 mustangs exhaust consists of 2 pipes that join at a y-pipe and exit through one pipe. the best way to go is buy a catback for a mustang gt and have a shop customize you an H or x-pipe. h is typically quieter, but deeper while x is louder but raspier. the y-pipe/H-pipe/x-pipe means refers to the shape of the midpipe (y-pipe looks like a y, x like an x, H like an H"

SVOMAN replied: "A good free flowing dual exhaust system will add horsepower and sound good too.."

how do i get more fuel economy from a 4.0 liter ford engine in a ranger? Average MPG is lower than expected.

dragonchopper replied: "Keep the tank full all the time and the fuel economy will be better."

kayef57 replied: "Make sure the engine is running at operating temperature which is195 to 210 degrees. Where and the way you drive makes a big difference. You can always change the axle ratio, but that will cost a lot of money."

pghmarty replied: "Keep tires inflated properly and remove all the extra junk that you dont need."

VanWinkle replied: "Sell it and buy a car that is better known for fuel economy; This isn't intended to be a wise crack answer, but seriously....the vehicle you're driving is very limited in what it can deliver in fuel economy, and if you want better, you'd have to make changes in what appeals to you in a car or truck."

casualtr97 replied: "keep your tires inflated to the proper psi, keep the a/c to a minimum and try to drive around the 2000rpm range(its slow as hell but you'll get where you need to go just not as fast.)"

dogdogssnow replied: "BUY A CHEV."

blackbazzjass replied: "Tonneu Cover, Cold Air intake, and lighting up on the Gas Pedal are the best ways."

mikey replied: "i was just curious what mpg you are getting. I had a 2003 Explorer Sport with that engine and the best mileage I got was 18 mpg. I also had a Dodge Dakota with a 5.2 L V-8 and got 21 mpg with it. That pretty well convinced me that if you want fuel mileage, you need either a 4 cylinder or a diesel."

ken m replied: "go to auto zone an get a gas additive,it will help alot"

Does the Ford 4.0 liter engine have anything in common with the 2.9 liter engine? A guy told me the 4.0 was a bored-out 2.9.

carnut replied: "It's not the same engine. The controls, the mechanical parts, and the tolerances are different. You'd have toi bore a hell of a lot of material ourt of a 2.9 block to increase its displacement to 4.0 L."

Smotter replied: "They are both made by Ford; they both use petrol, they're both made of metal, they are both used to produce movement in vehicles ......"

yugie29 replied: "No, there is nothing in common with the 4.0 liter. They are completely and totally different, from timing chain cassettes, to automatic valve lash adjusters, you will not find build similarities. The "guy" is very much incorrect."

kayef57 replied: "Yes, the are almost twins. The 2.8L is almost like the 2.9L,and the 2.9 is almost like the 4.0L."

Gypsy R replied: "Not "bored out" but definitely related. They are both Ford "Cologne" engines. Unfortunately just about no useful parts are interchangeble between them though. The 4.0 is a major upgrade of a design that started with a V4 engine in the 1960's. The 2.9 is the link in that chain just before the 4.0 overhead valve engine. The latest version is the 4.0 SOHC you'll find under the hood of many 2007 Mustangs."

kill the king replied: "different man definitely"

FomocoMan replied: "Yes they both have pistons and use gas and spark and compression to make it work other than that no"

Is there any difference between Ford Explorer's 4.0-liter engine or the 4.0-liter SOHC engine? I am looking at purchasing a Ford Explorer (2000 or better) and I have been told by my trusted mechanic that the 4.0-Liter V6 SOHC engine has more problems than the 4.0-Liter V6 engine. I have found a 2002 Explorer that I am interested in buying and it has the SOHC engine and I'm wondering if I should throw caution to the wind and buy it.

Another Perspective replied: "No difference. They both are horrible. They are Fords. Save your money and feet from walking when it leaves you Frequently On the Road Dead!"

Brozink replied: "I have never had a problem with my ford explorer and I have that 4.0 engine.Purrs like a kitten"

jh_hermal replied: "it is a ford thats whats wrong with it....lol....but anyways do you mean the 4.0l SOHC and the 4.0l DOHC? all engines have their problems the DOHC has another camshaft hence DOHC- means dual overhead cam and SOHC-single overhead cam. I have not heard too much about that."

southjga replied: "I have a 95 Explorer with the SOHC engine with 288k miles. I have not had any problems with it. The mechanic must be talking about the DOHC engine. The standard engine is the SOHC with the DOHC as an option."

4.0 liter Ford Aerostar engine leaks antifreeze into the oil---Is this fatal or fixable??? Engine mileage has gotten worse; there is no' missing' or overheating yet...still time for a try with a sealant? Or is that just not good overall...? Noticed some oil leakage also...

i am corban replied: "Head gasket is the only place they could interact. You need one."

KMB replied: "Sounds like it could be a blown head gasket, does it over heat?"

mike o replied: "Replace headgasket. If you still have the problem get a new engine"

licketychick replied: "Yup, headgasket. When your oil starts looking like chocolate milk, it's not a good thing. Expect to shell out some cash to your mechanic."

kayef57 replied: "Does it miss. Sometimes the intake manifold gets eaten inside and then the gasket can't seal correctly. Did you run the engine hot, if you did you may need head gaskets."

Rakel replied: "Common weak spots on a 4.0L OHV V6: - cylinder heads like to crack between the intake & exhaust valves - lower intake gaskets like to leak coolant internally/externally on the rubber portion of the gasket - fuel rail upper and lower gaskets like to push through causing vacuum leaks With that said, you may need an engine. How long was the engine ran with coolant in the crankcase? It's pretty safe to assume that you've ruined the bearings in the engine, if it was ran long enough before you discovered this problem."

edselmanll replied: "try some block sealer with sodium silicate, change the oil, and water and follow the directions it's worth a try, you don't have anything to lose and it's cheap :)"

i have an 94 ford Ranger 4.0 liter engine.? changed battery connectors now ABS light stays on why is this? thanks for your help.

Larry M replied: "When you removed the battery cables, the ABS Module powered down, causing the light to come on. It doesn't happen every time the cables are removed, but, it does happen. There is a 12 volt tool that you can buy, that plugs into the cigarette lighter and provides 12 volts to the system to prevent this from happening. A scan should be run on it to check for codes, just to be on the safe side. And to have the module reset. Hope this helps. Master tech 40 yrs."

Robert N replied: "change switch a little , caution when stopping just in case brake are bad"

Check Engine Light Won't Go Off In A 2001 Ford Explorer w/ 4.0 Liter Engine? My check engine light won't go off. The gas cap is fine and I can't find the PCV valve to change it. Any idea's, because the vehicle runs fine other than the annoying "check engine" light being on??????

miiiikeee replied: "No # 1 thing to set of check engine light and see no problems o2 sensor then egr valve"

Good Deeds replied: "get it scanned, it may be a faulty O2 sensor."

jmb162000 replied: "And if you ask anyone else that owns your type ford (or any ford for that matter) they will tell you that it WONT go off. This is typical of fords especially the newer ones. I am consistantly asked to turn them off for customers that come in to AutoZone, but I have to turn them away because of state laws requiring said vehicles to be taken back to the ford dealership for diagnosis instead. And yes, the customers often get angry, mainly because ford cant really figure this problem out either. Sell it FAST!!!!!!"

144289 replied: "Take a cable off the battery for a minute, hook it back and see how long it takes for it to come back on. I usually think of the DPFE sensor."

starwings20 replied: "Have you already had this vehicle into a shop for diagnosis and the light just keeps returning after? Or are you just guessing at problems? I don't know how much you know about the check engine light, but it comes on for many different problems, all related to your emissions. Depending on the problem, you may, or may not actually experience any noticiable problems and the vehicle may drive like normal. However there is a problem and it needs to be diagnosed. Since you didn't say anything about that, I can only assume you have not had it done yet. You don't mention any trouble codes, which would almost always come up if the check engine light is on. And since you mention two different things you are trying as a fix, it doesn't sound like you have gotten that little trouble code(s) yet. How long has the light been on? What have you done previously to fix it? What makes you think it is the gas cap or pcv valve? The best thing to do would be to take it into a shop that can run the diagnostic procedures for the trouble code that comes up. There are different tests they would run for different codes and the price would vary but generally starts around 60 bucks. Don't bother with a chain store or quicky lube, they aren't trained and rarely have a clue what to do after pulling a code. If you want to keep fiddiling with it yourself, at least have the code pulled at autozone or some other place that offers that service so you have an idea of where to start looking before you start changing parts out. Again I don't know what you have done previously, you didn't mention that so I can only assume you haven't had the problem diagnosed yet and are taking random guesses. As mentioned above, the o2 sensor, and the gas cap, are both common causes of a check engine light but there are many many more causes than that. Again, a trouble code will at least point you in the right direction. Without that, everything is just a guess, which could cost quite a bit if you just keep guessing."

bartzan41 replied: "Need to get it scanned and find what code is in it. It's not that big a deal to fix. Though it helps to take it to a dealer with a GOOD driveability tech. It's a car, not rocket science. Once the reason is known for the check engine light to come on, as in, the code, there are a finite number of possibilities as to the cause. Either a sensor, the computer, or the wiring harness/vacuum harness. Get the computer scanned and post the code here, someone will be able to help. At least steer you in the right direction, anyway!"

deerhunter329ohio replied: "this recently happened to me and one of my cylinders was misfiring, take it to autozone"

PCV valve in a 2001 Ford explorer, w/ a 4.0 liter engine? Where is it? All people can tell me is it's hard to find...........NO S**T! Does anyone have any help???? Thanks in advance...

JT B ford man replied: "They done away with PVC they have a different valve for the engine to breath now I cannot think right now what is called may be the DPFE It aliened with EGR hope this helps"

Ford Girl replied: "On a 2001 Explorer with the 4.0L SOHC engine, it's at the back of the engine. There are two rubber hoses connected to it on both the right and left side of the upper intake plenum. Follow either one of them, and it will lead you to it. Hope this helps."

gearbox1 replied: "depends upon which 4.0 that year.... If I remember the 4.0 OHV motor has it in the passenger side if I remember in plain view... the 4.0 sohc is the mother to find like Ford girl said.. easiest is to remove the 4.0 sohc beauty cover... feel along the back of the plastic intake... on the passenger side you will feel what feels like a hose and some sort of connector that is tie strapped in place... this is the pcv valve that you can't find... I normally wing up twisting them and breaking the tie strap to change them out... the force fit in the hose holds them in place.. I would recommend a Ford one however... I find some of the aftermarket aluminum ones start making a whistling or hooting sound after changing them sometimes..."

how do i stop that constant squeak from the engine of my 1999 ford ranger 4.0 liter when its cold? 1999 ford ranger 4.0 liter when its cold

jaypauldini replied: "it could be the fan belt, if it is best wayis to put some washing up liquid on the belt, a little not a lot, this will stop it squeaking."

pedro7of9 replied: "rub ivory bar soap on belt [not while running],,,check steering fluid level"

Somethingtotry replied: "Sell it."

1997 Ford Explorer V-6 OHV Engine, 4.0 liter squealing sound.? I hear a high pitched squealing sound coming from back of this engine. The sound appears to be close to the center of the engine about half a foot above the crankshaft center. It loudest when it is cold, the engine is first started and is in tune with engine RPM. One mechanic said it was the distributor but the engine has none. Anyone have an idea of the cause? It is an OHV not an OHC. Thanks Ken

danicori79 replied: "could it be a belt , i know belts can make really annoying sounds"

Gordon B replied: "The usual suspect is a belt, most often a power steering belt, but sometimes an A/C belt. Buy a can of "belt dressing" and spray it on the inside of the belts while the engine is idling, (Watch out for the fan!) You should hear the squealing stop immediately when you find the culprit. Next find the reason for the squeal, usually a belt that is too loose. Adjust the P/S or A/C unit to tighten the belt. It should move about 1/2" when depressed heavily between the two pulleys."

Akela replied: "tighten your belt a smidge. see if that helps. also, keep an eye on your oil level. if you are about due for a oil change, put in the synthetic and see if there is a seal bad near the back of your engine. It might be leaking oil out there and the "squeal" you hear might be the initial metal on metal contact until some oil gets to that part. Just a thought."

clark6561 replied: "would really have to see it, but it sound like you done spun a main bearing if so you need to go to a mechanic you trust drop pan and look for metal shavings......not the end of the world can be fixed without pulling the motor maybe depending on what is in the pan"

Mark F replied: "Squealing sounds, particularly when cold are almost always the result of serpentine belt problems. On the Explorer the usual culprits are either a siezed belt tensioner or a worn tensioner or idler pulley. This will cause the belt to slip, causing the squeal. The belt is automatically tensionioned - you can not loosen or tighten it manually."